Independence Day

Her name was Maria. Her sullen eyes and darkened face peered longingly at the passersby on the scorching July afternoon. She was noticeably thin, and the dryness of her skin left an impression of undernourishment and dehydration.  She rested on a concrete wall, the ground was her cushion.

She was passed by many shoppers, including myself, on their way into a large Athenian supermarket. While I was in the store, her face was stuck in my mind. But there are so many impoverished people in America, even in Jacksonville-why did this woman's image pester me so?

I think that when I left America 2 weeks ago I expected the world to be different. In my ignorance I didn't grasp the fact the sword of poverty strikes all corners of the earth. Even so, it was not the novelty of this woman that struck me, nor the disparity of her condition: it was her humanity. When you are taken out of your comfort as I have been recently you begin to look at people differently. The people in America are a lot like me: they speak the same language, have the same government, and enjoy the same benefits of living in one of the wealthiest nations on earth. The fact that I perceive them as so similar allows me to take them for granted. So when I am in a place that is so different, with a people and language so unique from my own-I am forced to grasp for the most basic strand of similarity: our common humanity.

Well, of course, people are human. What makes that so important? Only the fact that when a person becomes human they are imputed with value and significance. With humanity comes fair and ethical treatment, and an empathy that shines out from our common bond. The first step to treating people well is not to ignore their differences, it is to acknowledge their one paramount similarity.

Yesterday was the 4th of July, the celebration of American Independence. It's easy to forget the true meaning behind the day after the fireworks, the decorations, and the ever-so-patriotic barbecue. People fought and died in the war of independence for the idea that humanity matters. The idea that humans have irrevocable, God given rights of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. I have never been so close to that reality as in the eyes of that woman on the street. When you step out of the shade of American prosperity, you realize the unquestionable luxury of our condition. You realize the importance of our rights in the faces of those who do not have them.

I stopped to see the woman on the street for a few brief moments. I crouched down to look her in the eye, and I saw a longing. Not a longing for food or water or money, which were doubly present, but a simple longing to be treated as a human. As I gave her some money I used the only phase in Greek I could to let her know that, to me, she was a person and worthy of love. "Pos se lene?" In Greek, it means: "What is your name?"

There is something special about people's names, because knowing them shows that you understand who a person is and that you know something about them. Most importantly, it shows that you acknowledge their humanity. It shows that, at their core, they are not so different from you. Her name was Maria.

Routine

It's now the middle of our 3rd week here in Greece. I have essentially gotten into the swing of things with my classes, and have a better understanding of Greek culture.

With that being said, I would like to talk a little about Greek culture. Greece is a very different culture from our America. Greek communities are closer, their families work together, and their entire routine is slower. 

When I say that Greek communities are closer I am talking about the way that their social lives are arranged. In the tiny neighborhood where we are staying, there must be at least 8 cafes. This might not seem very different from America, but in Greece a cafe is a place where people will come and spend 3 hours just talking about their lives.  Personal disclosure and time spent together are of paramount importance to the Greek community. Contrast this with the grab-and-go consumer mentality of America, and the expedient nature of our superficial relationships. In America people will go for coffee, spend  45 minutes shooting the breeze with small talk, and then go on their way to their next activity. The emphasis is on personal privacy, not interpersonal connectedness The only people we are supposed to disclose to are very, very close friends and family members. Greeks, on the other hand, are much more open. 

This social closeness seems to lead to community closeness as well. In every Greek neighborhood their is a park called a platea. In the platea communities will gather to talk about political issues, children will come to play soccer, and young people will assemble to voice their public opinion. Once again, the openness of Greek culture is revealed.

I have really enjoyed the laid-back nature of Greece, but it was a little hard to get used to the contrast. I will be sharing more observations as they come!

Second Weekend in Greece!

This weekend was packed full of activity. Saturday was our tip to the Acropolis,the ancient holy place of Athens, which contains these two very famous landmarks.

The Porch of the Maidens

The Parthenon

Seeing both of these in person was so amazing, even if it was very hot outside! After a great lunch at a local Greek restaurant, we walked over to a Athenian cemetery. The cemetery wasn't green and filled with headstones like you would expect-it was white and filled with giant marble tombs. It was a very unique and interesting place. The Greeks treat their dead differently than we do. Death is not final for them, and it is very common for Greeks to visit their loved ones graves and talk to them for several years after their death.

On the way back on to the metro station we stopped at a cafe in the National Gardens of Athens, it was a very calm and relaxing place. 

Sunday we packed into a bus to go to Delphi. After a 2.5 hour ride, we were greeted by tremendous mountain views and the ancient ruins of the oracle of Delphi.

The Mountain

Ruins

This is a giant stone navel. (You heard me right).

Along with the ancient city, which is scattered up almost the entire mountain, Delphi also contained a great museum.

The Sphynx

Depiction of Ancient Battle Scene

Golden Finery

 The museum also had several really nice sculptures.

 

After the museum we traveled to the local tourist town. Surprisingly, it was deserted because it is actually more of a winter attraction. We did, however, find several really nice souvenirs in the shops that were made locally. 

Sunday came to a close with a nice home made dinner once we made it back to Athens. 

Monday was the back-to-class day. After Dr. Kaplan's class, which had a great discussion on Greek culture, we went with our Greek language class to a cafe to practice ordering food. Greek is such a unique language, and I am very excited to be learning more of it. 

I also had my class on Electra on Monday, which is getting into deferentially analyzing the 3 different Ancient renditions of Electra. Each of them has different themes, and the authors put their own spin on the myth. 

We finished off Monday with our weekly potluck dinner, which was wonderful. We also took the opportunity to celebrate our amazing professor's birthday at the potluck. The newly 22 year-old Dr. Kaplan even got a cake and candles. It was a great time!

This week will be full of activity, with Greek dance classes, cheese tastings, and more trips. 

Stay tuned!

Reality

It is 12:30 P.M. in Agia Paraskevi, the small neighborhood outside of Greece where I am staying. It's only 12:30 and reality has already began to set in. Today I spent the morning by myself while my classmates were on an excursion in downtown Athens.

Since I had some time to myself, I figured I would spend some time at the gym and take care of some errands. My  experience at the gym was great-once I was able to find my way inside.

I bet you are wondering what I meant by "reality has already began to sink in." Well, I can explain that statement pretty simply. When I spend time out in Greece on my own, I realize how helpless I am in a foreign country.

I only know some conversational Greek and the Greek alphabet. When it comes to reading Greek, I would put my skills at the preschool level. So when I am looking at signs and labels, desperately searching for what I want, I feel like a 4 year old who needs his mommy's help to find his Cocoa Puffs. Except mommy isn't here. Mommy is 5,000 miles away.

This morning I also tried to find the post office, and because of the deficiencies described above I was thwarted in that endeavor. While I was walking in the punishing Greek sun with sweat accosting seemingly every pore on my body I had a revelation. "This is what it is like to be different." I have felt different before, for many reasons, but being different never cost me the ability to get the things that I needed or wanted.

I get looked at strangely a lot here, too. Having blonde hair and blue in Greece draws peoples eyes quickly and regularly.  It's a different type of stare though, not of admiration or inspection-but of evaluation. I feel like I am being sized up. Xeno, they call me: the stranger.

I also went to the local grocery store in search of humus, a middle eastern side that I thought would be easy to locate. Greeted again by the ocular grip of the men watching the front of the store I made my way through in search of my goal. Here's a hint: they didn't have humus in this store. So, as I meandered around, probably looking absolutely ridiculous, I once again felt helpless. One of the store keepers pointed in my direction. said something in Greek, and called for one of his coworker who I knew already spoke English. I was already being singled out. Before she arrived, though, another man approached me and said another phrase in Greek-I think he was asking me what I was looking for. Almost as soon as I opened my mouth in response with "Humus?" He broke eye contact with me, went back to his work, and called "Teffi!" At that moment in time I ceased to be a person-I was a problem that needed dealing with. Teffi was the name of the lady who spoke English. She tried to help me, but couldn't completely understand what I was asking for. I politely said thank you and goodbye.

I don't want you to think that I am complaining. In fact, feeling different is one of the most liberating experiences I can remember. It feels poor at the time, but when I sit back and think about it, understanding how different you are forces you to look at other people differently. There will be people who act and speak differently than me in America, and each of them have feelings and egos just like I do, and I am certain that I treat them just the same as I have been treated in Greece.

The foundation for tolerance is understanding, not ignorance. I am reminded of this in Greece. The people here don't quite understand me and I don't quite understand me. What I do understand, however, is that they are people. People who, just like me, deserve respect. It is from that understanding that I will build.  

The Rising Sun

The Sun (Duh)

This morning we watched the sun rise on a mountain near where we live. We woke up at 5:30 AM and got to the top at around 7 AM. The total hike there and back was roughly 5.5 miles. The journey was one of the best experiences of my life. Climbing a mountain is an allegory of life. It's a difficult journey, but when you reach your goals the accomplishment is irreplaceable.

Yesterday was our first Greek class, which went really well due to our preparation and exposure to the Greek language. It is a pretty long walk to the building, however,which makes the AC a godsend once we reach it.

Athens

 Last night I got to present a couple of George Steiner's works to the Electra class. I was a lot of fun, since I got to lead the class discussion and help people understand more about the nature of tragedy. This class is so much more than an analysis of the Greek myth of Electra-its really an interdisciplinary discussion on the metaphysics of the human condition. Anyone with any interest in philosophy would absolutely adore it. 

We finished last night off with a community dinner and a lot of bad singing. It was a good time. 

I will be back shortly with this day's accomplishments!

First Day of Class

Today was not an extremely eventful day, but it was my first day of class abroad. The day started with a discussion with Dr. Kaplan about how Greece has been different for us, and the kinds of trends that we noticed in Greek culture.
One of the main things that is different in Greek culture is their laid back lifestyle. Each day shops and business close from around 3 PM till 5 PM, this allows Greeks the ability to take a nap before returning to work.
Also, when eating out in Greek restaurant or getting coffee at the cafe, it is customary to sit back and take hours with your meal or coffee. They are not nearly as rushed here as we are back in America. In America we are so schedule based and up tight that we usually eat quick and run.

We also discussed one of the books that we are reading this summer, Dinner With Persephone-a memoir written by an American living in Greece. What is described in this book is extremely accurate, even down to the writers assessment of Greek fruit juices (which are amazing, by the way). The book describes the culture shock associated with moving to Greece, along with the current Greek condition. The author is a poet, so it is filled with plenty of great imagery and metaphor.

After lunch Dr. Kaplan, Aya, and I went to campus to visit with the honors director of Deree. We also met the professor for our class on the tragedy of Electra. Both the honors director and our professor were very nice and hospitable, and seemed genuinely interested in our experiences in Greece.

Our first class started at 4:40 PM and is slated to go for 2 hours, five days a week. This seems daunting, but once the class started the time really flew by.

I have to admit, I was not prepared for the level of this class. It is basically an interdisciplinary class on the Greek tragedy of Electra. On a deeper level, it a philosophy class, a literature class, and a research class all rolled into one. I was very taken aback. I already have my first presentation tomorrow on a couple of articles dealing with the philosophical construct of tragedy. By the end of our two hour class we had exhausted the chalkboard and our minds. We concluded that a tragedy is really a treatise on a cultures theology, with was a very interesting conclusion.

The evening ended with yet another night of ultimate Frisbee. Surprisingly, this has not only been a great way for us to get exercise, but has also been a great bonding experience.

Tomorrow is our first Greek class and my presentation! Wish me luck!

Sorry!

Sorry about the length of my previous post! We had a long weekend and only a little free time to blog!

I promise they won't all be that long!

Enjoy!